In the shadow of this ancient fortress, can you hear the echos of the sultan’s robes as he moved within the walls of the Palacio Nazaríes? Can you hear what he heard, centuries ago, the waters flowing from the mouths of stone lions in the courtyard, the bubbling fountains, and the birdsong? Here, from the banks of the Darro River, the past fairly grabs and shakes the twenty-first century commoner, shouting, “Look at me! I walked where you walk! I ate and drank and prayed and laughed! I created! I remain.” Shhhh! Listen.